Ultimate Guide to 3D Printer Bed Adhesion (PEI, Glass & More)
If your first layer doesn’t stick, your print won’t succeed — it’s that simple. Bed adhesion is one of the most common frustrations in 3D printing, but the good news? It’s usually fixable with just a few key tweaks.
Here’s what actually works when it comes to getting solid, reliable first layers.
Level Your Bed (Yes, Really)
Ensuring your Z-offset is dialed in and your bed isn’t warped is essential—even with auto bed leveling.
Quick Tip:
Slide a standard sheet of printer paper under the nozzle. You should feel slight drag—not loose, not scraping.
Video Tutorial:
Know Your Bed Surface
Different surfaces perform best with different filaments:
Bed Surface
Best For
Notes
PEI (smooth/textured)
PLA, PET‑G, TPU
Strong grip; textured PEI helps with flexible filaments.
Glass
PLA, ABS
Needs glue/hairspray; PET‑G can bond—use release agent.
BuildTak / Flex Plates
Most filaments
Good adhesion but sensitive to bed height and wear.
Garolite (FR4)
Nylon, TPU
Excellent for engineering filaments; keep clean.
Get the Temps Right
Bed temperature affects adhesion dramatically:
PLA: 60°C
PET‑G: 70–85°C
ABS: 100°C+ (ideally enclosed)
TPU: 40–60°C
Tip: Start low and add 5°C if prints peel or warp.
Clean Your Bed Regularly
Wipe with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol
For PEI: use dish soap & hot water
Avoid cleaners with additives or fragrances
Reference Video:
Use Brims, Rafts, or Skirts (When Needed)
Skirt: Primes nozzle—no attachment to the model
Brim: Adds edge rings—best for warping corners
Raft: Thick base—helpful for difficult prints but wasteful
Video Explanation:
Add a Little Adhesive (When in Doubt)
Glue Stick: Water‑soluble and easy to clean
Hairspray: Use unscented—works well with PLA on glass
Magigoo: Specialized adhesion solution for various filaments