What are the most common signs of poor bed adhesion?

Curled corners, parts detaching mid-print, first-layer lines that don’t touch, or shiny/rounded lines that scrape off easily. If a skirt varies around the perimeter, Z-offset or leveling is off.

Which build surfaces work best for reliable adhesion?

PEI sheets (smooth or textured) are the most forgiving for PLA/PETG. Glass gives glossy bottoms but needs precise Z and clean prep. For ABS/ASA, PEI or garolite in an enclosure is preferable.

How should I clean the build plate?

For PLA/PETG on PEI: wipe warm with 90–99% IPA before prints and occasionally wash with mild dish soap and hot water to remove oils. Avoid touching the surface; handle by the edges.

What first-layer settings actually help adhesion?

Use a slower first layer (15–30 mm/s), a slightly higher nozzle/bed temp (+5–10°C), 120–140% first-layer extrusion width, and a 0.2–0.28 mm height with a 0.4 mm nozzle.

Do I still need manual leveling if I have ABL/mesh?

Yes. Tram the bed/gantry first so ABL only compensates small variations. Then heat to print temps, run mesh, and dial in Z-offset during a live first-layer test.

When should I use adhesives like glue stick or hairspray?

Use a light glue layer for PETG on smooth PEI (to prevent over-bonding), for ABS/ASA to reduce warping, or when a worn surface needs a temporary boost. Apply thinly; heavy layers hurt flatness.

How can I prevent warping with ABS/ASA and large parts?

Print in an enclosure, increase bed temp, add a brim, reduce part-cooling, and avoid drafts. Consider a textured PEI or garolite sheet and keep chamber temps consistent.

Brim, raft, or skirt—which should I use and when?

Use a 5–10 line brim to hold corners on warp-prone materials. Rafts are last resort for uneven or damaged plates. Skirts prime the nozzle and reveal leveling/Z issues without affecting the part.

My first layer looks perfect but parts still pop loose later—why?

Ambient changes and internal stress can lift edges during tall prints. Increase bed temp a bit, add brim, reduce cooling, slow down early layers, and ensure the sheet is fully seated with no debris underneath.

Quick checklist before starting a critical print?

1) Clean plate, 2) Verify frame square and belt tension, 3) Heat to print temps, 4) Level/mesh, 5) Set Z-offset with a first-layer test, 6) Add brim for warp-prone materials, 7) Keep drafts off the printer.

April 4, 2024

Master Bed Adhesion: Simple Fixes That Work

Ultimate Guide to 3D Printer Bed Adhesion (PEI, Glass & More)

If your first layer doesn’t stick, your print won’t succeed — it’s that simple. Bed adhesion is one of the most common frustrations in 3D printing, but the good news? It’s usually fixable with just a few key tweaks.

Here’s what actually works when it comes to getting solid, reliable first layers.

Level Your Bed (Yes, Really)

Ensuring your Z-offset is dialed in and your bed isn’t warped is essential—even with auto bed leveling.

Quick Tip:
Slide a standard sheet of printer paper under the nozzle. You should feel slight drag—not loose, not scraping.

Video Tutorial:

Know Your Bed Surface

Different surfaces perform best with different filaments:

Bed Surface	Best For	Notes
PEI (smooth/textured)	PLA, PET‑G, TPU	Strong grip; textured PEI helps with flexible filaments.
Glass	PLA, ABS	Needs glue/hairspray; PET‑G can bond—use release agent.
BuildTak / Flex Plates	Most filaments	Good adhesion but sensitive to bed height and wear.
Garolite (FR4)	Nylon, TPU	Excellent for engineering filaments; keep clean.

Get the Temps Right

Bed temperature affects adhesion dramatically:

PLA: 60°C
PET‑G: 70–85°C
ABS: 100°C+ (ideally enclosed)
TPU: 40–60°C

Tip: Start low and add 5°C if prints peel or warp.

Clean Your Bed Regularly

Wipe with 90%+ isopropyl alcohol
For PEI: use dish soap & hot water
Avoid cleaners with additives or fragrances

Reference Video:

Use Brims, Rafts, or Skirts (When Needed)

Skirt: Primes nozzle—no attachment to the model
Brim: Adds edge rings—best for warping corners
Raft: Thick base—helpful for difficult prints but wasteful

Video Explanation:

Add a Little Adhesive (When in Doubt)

Glue Stick: Water‑soluble and easy to clean
Hairspray: Use unscented—works well with PLA on glass
Magigoo: Specialized adhesion solution for various filaments

Magigoo:
Magigoo 3D Printer Bed Adhesion Solution – Maker’s Muse Review
Buy Magigoo Original Adhesive

First Layer Print Settings That Matter

Slow first layer to 20–30 mm/s
Raise first layer temperature by 5–10 °C
Calibrate nozzle height so lines are slightly squished—not rounded or dragging

Video:

Still Struggling with Bed Adhesion?

Check for warped bed surfaces
Verify first layer consistency across all areas
Review slicer and temperature profiles for your filament

We offer diagnostics, custom slicer profiles, and printer tuning to help you print consistently and successfully.

3D Printing By Bokey

Master Bed Adhesion: Simple Fixes That Work

Ultimate Guide to 3D Printer Bed Adhesion (PEI, Glass & More)

Level Your Bed (Yes, Really)

Know Your Bed Surface

Get the Temps Right

Clean Your Bed Regularly

Use Brims, Rafts, or Skirts (When Needed)

Add a Little Adhesive (When in Doubt)

First Layer Print Settings That Matter

Still Struggling with Bed Adhesion?

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